1HP Pump Stopped Working in a New Borewell? 4 Causes & Fixes

Drilling a new borewell is a major investment. So, when your newly installed 1HP submersible pump pumps water perfectly to your overhead tank twice—and then suddenly stops—it is incredibly frustrating.

If the motor is still humming but no water is coming out, the problem usually isn't a "broken" pump. Based on our experience repairing borewells across Hyderabad and Secunderabad, here are the four most likely reasons your new borehole stopped yielding water, and exactly how to fix it.

1. Severe Water Level Drop (Drawdown)

This is the most common issue, especially during the dry season. When a pump runs, it creates a "cone of depression" in the water table. If your pump draws water faster than the underground aquifer can refill the bore (the recharge rate), the water level drops below the pump's intake.

The Fix: You need to measure the static water level and the drawdown level. If the bore has a low yield, install a Water Level Controller (Float Sensor). This automatically switches off the pump when the water drops to a dangerous level, protecting the motor from dry-running, and turns it back on when the bore recharges.

2. Mud and Silt Clogging

New boreholes are notoriously dirty. The drilling process leaves behind loose rock dust, clay, and sand. If the well wasn't flushed properly before installing the pump, the 1HP motor may have sucked up this debris during its first two runs, completely clogging the impellers.

The Fix: The pump must be carefully pulled out to the surface. If the impellers do not rotate freely, it needs to be opened, cleaned, and tested. (Read our guide on Professional Pump Extraction if you need help pulling it out safely).

3. Friction Loss from Narrow Pipes

If your pump produces a small flow, even a minor drop in the water table (like 1.5 meters) can stop the flow entirely because the pump lacks the "Head Pressure" to push it up to your tank. This is often made worse by using pipes that are too narrow over long distances.

For example, if you are pumping water through 150 feet (approx. 50 meters) of standard 20mm (3/4 inch) poly pipe, the friction inside the pipe creates a massive resistance (about 18 meters of head loss).

The Fix: Upgrade to a larger diameter pipe with minimal bends. Changing that same pipe to a 32mm (1.25 inch) poly pipe drops the friction loss down to just 1.7 meters. This simple change allows the 1HP pump to push water to the roof effortlessly.

The "Two-Stage Pumping" Solution

If your new borewell simply has insufficient flow to support a direct push to a high roof tank, don't drill a new well yet! Instead, install a ground-level holding tank (Sump). Let the borewell pump slowly fill the ground tank as the water recharges. Then, use a secondary surface pump (like a shallow well jet pump) to push the water from the sump up to your overhead tank.

4. Shallow Well Pump Limitations

If you are using a surface-mounted shallow well pump (instead of a submersible dropped into the water), you are fighting gravity. Shallow well pumps physically cannot draw water efficiently if the water level drops further than 25 feet deep.

The Fix: If the water table has fallen past 25 feet, you must either install a double-drop jet assembly inside the well for a deeper draw, or abandon the surface pump and lower a proper submersible pump deep into the water.

Need Your New Borewell Checked?

If your pump is stuck, clogged, or failing to lift water, our experts can diagnose the exact pressure and water level issues. Serving Kukatpally, Ameerpet, Miyapur, and the Twin Cities area.

Call Deans Pump Repair